Our 'Rana' brings you the best of historic Cusco and legendary Lake Titicaca…soak up scenery, traditional culture and Inca and pre-Inca remains; raft deep jungle river canyons and ride South America’s highest zipline; chill out in beautiful natural hot springs in high jungle and freezing windswept altiplano; hike the Inca Trail; wander in awe through Machu Picchu, the unsurpassable jewel in Peru’s crown; explore the ancient passageways of historic Cusco and the frenetic streets of bustling Puno; stay with locals at the foot of a volcano, and on the shores of Lake Titicaca; contemplate life and death in Lampa…. and much more!

Itinerary

Day 1. Arrive, explore Cusco

We’ll meet at high noon and head off for a traditional Peruvian Sunday lunch at a local favourite restaurant. Lunch is traditionally the main meal of the day here, and Sunday’s is the high point of the week. We’ll leave the afternoon fairly flexible – to get to know Cusco with or without your guide, shop, wander around, or whatever. We make sure there’s time today to acclimatise (or sleep off lunch!), but we’re also here to show you the sights, or help with whatever you need to do.

• Accommodation: Cusco hotel, Cusco
• (B,L,D)

Day 2. The Sacred Valley

Today we leave Cusco for the nearby Vilcanota valley, widely known as the Valle Sagrado (Sacred Valley). You’ll soon see why it was sacred to the Incas – its eternally spring-like climate and gorgeous scenery made it a popular weekend getaway for Inca aristocracy. The sunny, photogenic valley, with its background of snowcapped peaks, is dotted with ruins, agricultural terracing, and villages where people are still living in a traditional way.

Our first stop is tiny Patabamba, a little-visited village where we’ll take part in the creation of the beautiful textiles that make this area well known. Katy’s friend Carmen, and the local kids she’s training in these ancient skills, will take us through the whole process, from picking the plants and boiling the leaves for dyes, to shearing the sheep and using the loom.

For the rest of the day we’ll meander through the Valley checking out our choice of markets, viewpoints, and out-of-the-way ruins, before a gourmet dinner at renowned novo-andina fusion Restaurant Tres Keros in Urubamba.

• Accommodation: Cabinas Las Chullpas, Urubamba
• (B,L,D)

• OPTION A: INCA JUNGLE TRAIL TO MACHU PICCHU

  Day 3. Bike ride and hot springs

  The day starts with a drive over the central ridge of the Andes. We’ll ascend about 1,500 metres from the Sacred Valley to Abra Malaga (Malaga Pass), which sits at a breathtaking, glacial (we mean both these terms literally) 4,350 metres above sea level. From here we descend into the Amazon basin on mountain bikes, losing about 1,300 metres of altitude over up to 71km of road with some optional single track for the enthusiasts. There are a lot of photo opportunities along the way as the road snakes down through ever lusher vegetation. By the time we get to Santa Teresa at a tropical 1,900 metres, you’ll be ready for a cold beer, and we’re looking forward to shouting you one at the Cocalmayo Hot Springs. This is one of Katy’s favourite places in Peru: beautifully landscaped, natural hot springs, set by the side of a rushing river, surrounded by manicured lawns and lounging areas – it’s a stunning oasis, and an unbeatable place to unwind.

  • Accommodation: Bush cabins at Hugo’s Lodge, Santa Teresa
  • (B,L,D)

  Day 4. High adventure – jungle zipline and white water rafting

  Today we’re in for two high-adrenalin adventures. We start with Cola de Mono, South America’s highest zipline (flying fox). After being harnessed up, kitted out and fully briefed, we’ll each whizz across six separate sections of line strung across the precipitous Sacsara Valley, a narrow fold in the Andes between Santa Teresa and Machu Picchu. The scenery is spectacular and the ride surprisingly serene; you won’t forget this experience in a hurry.
  
  In the afternoon we’ll raft the Santa Teresa River. There are several possible sections we can do; in consultation with our experienced local guides, we’ll pick the best section on the day based on water level and group experience. Whichever section we choose, we’ll be rafting exciting Grade III rapids in turquoise-clear water through lush, steep river gorges – sweet as!
  
  Later in the day there’ll be time for more soaking in the glorious Cocalmayo hot pools – indeed, it’s not unheard of for people on our trips to opt to spend the whole day chilling out here.

  • Accommodation: Hugo’s Lodge, Santa Teresa
  • (B,L,D)

  Day 5. Hike and train to Machu Picchu!

  Today we’ll take a fabulous, little-known hike to Llactapata, a recently discovered Inca ruin that nestles into a jungle hilltop. The six-hour hike includes stunning views of precipitous jungle hillsides and sinuous river valleys, and even a few glimpses of Machu Picchu to whet our appetites for tomorrow. The hike finishes at the hydroelectric station, where we’ll take a train to Machu Picchu Pueblo (town), also known as Aguas Calientes. We’ll aim for an early night tonight, as we want to be at Machu Picchu for sunrise tomorrow!

  • Accommodation: Local hotel, Machu Picchu Pueblo
  • (B,L,D)

• OPTION B: THE INCA TRAIL

  Day 3. Hike to Wayllabamba

  We’ll have an early departure from Urubamba today and head for KM82, where we start the Inca Trail. Crossing the Urubamba River we trek past typical, semi-arid forest featuring cacti, prickly pears and aloe vera. Llactapata, the first archaeological site on our journey, about six kilometres in, marks the turnoff into the Cusicacha Valley. From here we start to climb out of the Sacred Valley. Four kilometres of gentle uphill through farmland takes us to Wayllabamba and our campsite for the night.
  
  Walking – 12 kilometres or 8 miles
  Minimum Altitude – 2,700 metres, 8,990 feet
  Maximum Altitude – 3,100 metres, 10,000 feet
  Altitude of camp – 3,100 metres, 10,000 feet

  • Accommodation: Luxury camping on the Inca Trail
  • (B,L,D)

  Day 4. Wayllabamba to Pacaymayo

  Today we spend most of the day climbing to the highest point in the trek, Dead Woman’s Pass (Warmiwaynusca in Quechua). We’ll ascend 1,000 metres (3,280 feet) over 8 km (5 miles), initially past small villages and farmland, then through sub tropical forest, and eventually above the treeline to Dead Womans Pass at 4,200 metres (13,780 feet). From here it’s a steep 600 metres (1,980 feet) descent over 3 kilometres (1.8 miles) through humid forest to the evening campsite of Pacaymayo, and one of the best views in the Andes.
  
  Walking – 11 kilometres or 6.8 miles
  Minimum Altitude – 3,100 metres, 10,000 feet
  Maximum Altitude – 4,200 metres, 13,780 feet
  Altitude of Camp – 3,600 metres, 11,810 feet

  • Accommodation: Luxury camping on the Inca Trail
  • (B,L,D)

  Day 5. Pacaymayo to Wiñay Wayna

  Only 45 minutes into today’s hike, we come to the first of today’s spectacular ruins: Runkurakay, the beginnings of the original royal Inca trail. From here it’s a stiff ascent of an hour or so to the second mountain pass at 3,900 metres (12,800 feet), which offers panoramic views of the spectacular, snow-covered Vilcabamba mountain range. This pass marks the watershed of the Andes – from here on we’re descending into the Amazon, and you’ll notice an immediate change to lusher, more ‘jungly’ vegetation. The next stop is Sayacmarca, one of the most beautiful ruins on the Inca trail. After lunch we trek through some of the most stunning scenery in Peru, through cloudforest, orchids and hummingbirds with mountains on all sides. From the other-worldly ruin of Phuyupatamarca we have three hours of steep downhill into the forest to Wiñay Wayna and our camp for the evening.
  
  Walking – 12 kilometres or 10.5 miles
  Minimum Altitude – 2,670 metres, 8,760 feet
  Maximum Altitude – 3,900 metres, 12,800 feet
  Altitude of Camp – 2,670 metres, 8,760 feet

  • Accommodation: Luxury camping on the Inca Trail
  • (B,L,D)

Day 6. Machu Picchu

Jungle trail (Option A) participants will hike or catch the bus to Machu Picchu, and Inca Trail (Option B) hikers will set out by 6am to hike there, so we can all spend the day exploring the words-fail-me glory that is Machu Picchu – one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. We’ll have a guided tour (a good one, with no numbers on sticks, we promise), plus plenty of time to explore on our own or climb for breathtaking views up one or more stunning nearby peaks: Huayna Picchu, Putucusi or Machu Picchu mountain itself. Later we’ll return by scenic train to Cusco.

• Accommodation: Comfortable Cusco hotel, Cusco
• (B,L,D)

Day 7. Free day in the belly-button of the world - Cusco!

The oldest continuously inhabited city in the Americas and its undisputed archaeological capital, Cusco (sometimes known as Cuzco, or in the local Quechua language as Q’osq’o) is a town whose attractions run into the thousands. It boasts enough museums, churches, and ruins to make your head spin. Or if you feeling like a little retail therapy, Cusco offers everything from folksy artesanias of every possible kind, through indigenous markets selling potatoes by the sack and frogs by the bucket, to exquisite handcrafted jewellery and avant garde fashion. It’s also perfect for just wandering – through ancient, llama-width cobbled alleyways that open up into charming plazoletas (little plazas), and there are stunning cityscapes and inviting cafés at every turn.

If you’re in the mood for an organised activity, there are plenty of tours and outdoor activities on offer - whatever you’re in the mood for today, we’ll get you sorted!

• Accommodation: Comfortable Cusco hotel, Cusco
• (B)

Day 8. Andahuaylillas and Inca ruins of Raqchi

Today, after a relaxing morning, we start our journey south-east to Lake Titicaca. Our first stop, less than an hour away, is Andahuaylillas. This small, sleepy village is thrown into the shade by its Jesuit church, one of the most elaborate and baroque in all Peru (and that’s saying something!) Another couple of hours brings us to Raqchi. The town is famous for its weird, extra-terrestrial-looking Inca ruin, which we’ll explore thoroughly today, but what makes it especially dear to Katy’s heart is its people – they’re funny, kind, and really good singers and musicians. If we're lucky, they'll give us a few numbers tonight, before enjoying a yummy homecooked dinner and a few stories, and settling down for the night in their guestrooms.

• Accommodation: Family homestay, Raqchi
• (B,L,D)

Day 9. Hike and throw pots!

We’ll spend the morning hiking to breathtaking lookouts and nearby (extinct!) volcano Kimsach’ata. Along the way our engaging local guide, Bonifacio, will tell us about this area’s long, rich history – it’s been inhabited since at least 200BC, and was a major staging-post on one of the most important roads in the Inca Empire.

Back in Raqchi we’ll enjoy a hearty, home cooked lunch. Lunch is invariably a multi-course affair involving several different kinds of potato – you haven’t lived until you’ve tried Inca-technology, freeze-dried chuno, and yamlike olluca and occas. Ceramics are Raqchi’s main industry – many of the pots, cups and ornaments you’ll see on sale throughout Peru are made here, in people’s home pottery studios. In the afternoon we’ll try our hand at throwing a pot ourselves. Worst-case scenario is hilarious, messy fun – and with luck, you’ll end up with a super-souvenir you made yourself!

• Accommodation: Family homestay, Raqchi
• (B,L,D)

Day 10. High-altitude hot springs and creepy catacombs

The next milestone on our journey towards Lake Titicaca is Abra la Raya – the highest point on the trip at a breathless 4,470 metres, and the gateway to the Altiplano. Stretching all the way from here across Bolivia, the Altiplano is the highest inhabited area in the world. You’ll notice the difference in terrain straight away – high, dry, and bitterly cold, you’ll wonder how and why people live here. Just before the pass, we’ll stop at the Marangani natural hot springs, one of the most surreal stops on our entire trip and a popular local hangout. Steaming streams link five pools against a background of sweeping plains and snowcapped peaks: it’s a sight you won’t soon forget, and a fantastic place to soak away the sore legs of yesterday’s hike!

The afternoon brings us to Lampa. In colonial days a thriving metropolis, it’s now a forgotten gem where llamas wander through the main square, past pink stone buildings and the most amazing church we’ve ever had the privilege to visit. Among many other marvels, it houses a collection of hundreds of skulls and skeletons, artistically arranged in a marble crypt – it just has to be seen to be believed.

• Accommodation: Casa Romero, Lampa
• (B,L,D)

Day 11. Prehistoric art and post-modern food

Today we’ll head out of Lampa via the Cueva de Toros (cave of bulls), where we’ll see prehistoric cave paintings – not of bulls, which arrived with the conquistadores, but of llamas and other local animals. The cave is so named for being shaped like a bull – you can decide for yourself if you agree.

We’re headed for Puno, a hectic port town on the shores of Lake Titicaca. We’ll spend the afternoon soaking up some culture – such as the Museo Carlos Dreyer, which hosts one of Peru’s best archaeological collections, and the Steamship SS Yavari, which was brought in pieces by llama from Lima in 1862. Puno is also great for wandering, with several scenic lookouts, bustling markets, cool cafes for people watching, and plenty of shopping. This evening we’ll enjoy the benefits of civilisation with a fabulous dinner – Puno is home to a couple of first-rate novo-andino restaurants, and tonight we’ll enjoy cutting-edge fusion treats like greek-style alpaca and smoked trout in vodka sauce.

• Accommodation: Comfortable hotel, Puno
• (B,L,D)

Day 12. Textiles, totora and trout on Lake Titicaca!

Today we'll explore the islands of Lake Titicaca. First, the well-known oddity of the Uros Islands: better known as the Floating Islands, the islands are entirely manmade, woven of totora reeds (like Thor Heyerdahl used to construct the Kon Tiki). It’s said the Uros people took to the lake in this unusual way to escape waves of conquerors, including the Incas. These days, the islands can feel like a rather commercial experience, so our sojourn here will be brief - long enough to learn a bit about the soggy, reed-based life of the inhabitants, take a ride in a dragon-headed reed boat, and bounce up and down a bit on the intriguingly spongy ‘ground’.

From here, we chug across the lake to Taquile, perhaps the most beautiful of the islands of Lake Titicaca, with an inviting Mediterranean climate, steep green hillsides, and stunning views across the lake to the snowcapped peaks of Bolivia to the east. After a lunch including quinua soup - absolutely fantastic on Taquile; this one of the simplest and most delicious dishes you’ll eat in Peru - we’ll spend the afternoon exploring the pre-Inca ruins and tiny towns along the peaceful pathways of the island. Taquile is famous for its textiles; we’ll see them on the people, learn about their significance, and have the opportunity to buy them in the island’s co-operative shop. There are no cars or roads on Taquile, and even dogs are forbidden, so the silence after nightfall is complete: perfect for a fantastic night’s sleep, and for viewing a sky that’s nearly always clear and packed with stars. This must be one of the most peaceful places on Earth.

• Accommodation: Basic hospedaje, Taquile
• (B,L,D)

Day 13. Lakeside life in Luquina Chico

We’ll take no chances with our luck today: when we were doing research for Lonely Planet, we visited dozens of communities that are opening their homes and lives to tourists on the shores and islands of Lake Titicaca, and our favourite was Luquina Chico, so that’s where we’re going today. The costumes, customs and cuisine of the people who live here have barely changed in centuries; this is truly an unforgettable opportunity to see how the other half lives.

The views, the accommodation (basic but charming and indescribably restful) and the local sights (prehistoric burial towers for dwarves – seriously!) were what made Luquina Chico stand out from other villages offering homestays. We’ll also have the opportunity to experience subsistence faming, as we accompany our hosts in groups or individually on their daily activities, perhaps tending crops, helping to prepare potatoes for outdoor freeze-drying, or fishing – these activities are seasonal and depend what people are up to on the day. In Luquina Chico we get as deep inside rural Peruvian life as we do anywhere. It’s the perfect ending for our trip – the contrast between this place and the international airports you’ll be in on the way home will stay with you for a long time, and make you see your own world a different way.

• Accommodation: Guestroom in family house, Luquina Chico
• (B,L,D)

Day 14. Departure day

We’ll finish our time together with another gourmet lunch in Puno, and get you to Juliaca airport in time for afternoon flights. If you’re staying on in Puno, we’re delighted to help out with suggestions and assistance for the rest of your time here. (B,L)

GOT MORE TIME IN PERU? We can help arrange all manner of activities to keep you entertained – from volunteering at a local school to a crash-course in Spanish or a visit to the lower jungle – the options are almost as endless as they are rewarding. For instance, if you’ve chosen the “Inca Jungle Trail” option on your Rana, after the trip you could head back to Cusco and hike the classic Inca Trail (be sure to chat with us before the trip if you’re considering this, as you need to book as early as possible). Something else tickle your fancy? Let us know, and we’ll look into it for you!

Included

• all meals as specified in the itinerary (B,L,D = breakfast, lunch dinner)
• drinking water at meals
• all accommodation and activities specified in itinerary
• transfer to Juliaca airport if taken on last day of trip

Not included

• extra cost for Inca Trail Option B
• drinks apart from at meals
• activities not specified in itinerary
• transport to start of trip
• transfer to Juliaca airport on days other than last day of trip (August 14)