Peru - The Ccoyllor Ritty trip

Dates: Saturday 2 June 2012 - Wednesday 13 June 2012
Saturday 25 May 2013 - Wednesday 5 June 2013
Price: From US$2,575 + applicable taxes and fees

Machu Picchu ∙ Ccoyllor Ritty and pilgrimage to Tayancani ∙ Scenic bike descent ∙ High jungle zipline ∙ Historic Cusco ∙ World-famous Pisac craft market and fortress ∙ Hike the stunning Sacred Valley from Moray to Salineras

Your guide

Katy on her first trip to Ccoyllorritty in 2009!Katy on her first trip to Ccoyllorritty in 2009!

Trip summary

Saturday 2 June 2012

Arrive, explore Cusco

Sunday 3 June 2012

To Ccoyllor Ritty

Monday 4 June 2012

Ccoyllor Ritty Festival

Tuesday 5 June 2012

Walk to Tayancani

Wednesday 6 June 2012

Hardcore Andean religious fiesta at Tayancani

Thursday 7 June 2012

Free day in Cusco

OPTION A: INCA JUNGLE TRAIL TO MACHU PICCHU

Friday 8 June 2012

Chinchero, Maras and Salineras - three unforgettable Inca sites

Saturday 9 June 2012

Cycle down into the Amazon Basin!

Sunday 10 June 2012

Jungle adventures and relaxation

OPTION B: STANDARD INCA TRAIL HIKE TO MACHU PICCHU

Friday 8 June 2012

Hike to Wayllabamba

Saturday 9 June 2012

Wayllabamba to Pacaymayo

Sunday 10 June 2012

Pacaymayo to Wiñay Wayna

Options reunite here

Monday 11 June 2012

Machu Picchu!

Tuesday 12 June 2012

Through the Sacred Valley back to Cusco

Wednesday 13 June 2012

Departure day

Peru mapPeru map Hiking into Ccoylloritty - with a little help from our friends!Hiking into Ccoylloritty - with a little help from our friends! The Sacred Valley of the IncasThe Sacred Valley of the Incas Offerings to Pacha MamaOfferings to Pacha Mama Flags fly high at Ccoyllor Ritty festival, PeruFlags fly high at Ccoyllor Ritty festival, Peru The Mountain Festival gets underway!The Mountain Festival gets underway! Machu Picchu in the morning lightMachu Picchu in the morning light Church in the main square of CuscoChurch in the main square of Cusco Hiking the Inca trailHiking the Inca trail Peruvian food - yum!Peruvian food - yum! Typical scene in the Sacred ValleyTypical scene in the Sacred Valley Village houses covered in political signageVillage houses covered in political signage Cusco marketCusco market The Cola de Mono zipline experienceThe Cola de Mono zipline experience

This trip has it all… soak up scenery, traditional culture and Inca ruins; ride South America’s highest zipline; hike the Inca Trail (optional); wander in awe through Machu Picchu, the unsurpassable jewel in Peru’s crown; explore the ancient passageways of historic Cusco; experience the full-immersion cultural encounter that is Ccoyllor Ritty, the most ‘out there’ experience we offer (or know of) in Peru, a very ‘out there’ country; hike from one Inca marvel to another in the stunning Sacred Valley… and much more!

The Ccoyllor Ritty festival is also known as Ccoyllorritty, Qoyllority, Qollor Riti / Q'oyoriti. Qoyllority is a Quechua word which means Shining Snow, and in Quechua "The Lord of Qoyllority" translates as Taytacha Qoyoriti. (also known and spelt Colloritty). Tongue twisted yet?!

Itinerary

Day 1. Arrive, explore Cusco

We’ll meet at high noon and head off for a traditional Peruvian Sunday lunch at a local favourite restaurant. Lunch is traditionally the main meal of the day here, and Sunday’s is the high point of the week. We’ll leave the afternoon fairly flexible – to get to know Cusco with or without your guide, wander around, shop for tomorrow’s mega-mission to Ccoyllorritty. We make sure there’s time today to acclimatise (or sleep off lunch!), but we’re also here to show you the sights, or help with whatever you need to do.

  • Accommodation: Cusco hotel, Cusco
  • (L,D)

Day 2. To Ccoyllor Ritty

After a relaxed morning we’ll drive to Mayarwani, in a remote corner of the eastern Andes, where our pilgrimage-hike begins. It’s an easy to moderate hike of about three hours (horses are available for luggage and people), at first steeply and then gently ascending through a high valley to the site of the temporary tent city where tens of thousands of pilgrims gather over these few days every year. After settling into our comfortable camp, you’ll have time to wander around and take in the overwhelming festivities all around us.

Ccoyllorritty is a unique cultural event, almost entirely indigenous, which combines adoration of the Apus – mountain gods – with worship of a mysterious local image of Jesus Christ. It’s a stunning, multi-day, all singing, all dancing manifestation of the syncresis between the indigenous Andean and Catholic religions. Brass band music and entranced, elaborately costumed dancing go on literally day and night, and foreign faces are rare. No alcohol is allowed at Ccoyllorritty and the sobriety just adds to the surreal, peaceful yet frenzied vibe of the thing.

We’ll have plenty of time to take it all in as a group, as well as individually if you prefer, and a comfortable base camp to relax in.

  • Accommodation: Tent City, Ccoyllorritty
  • (B,L,D)

Day 3. Ccoyllor Ritty Festival

Today is the central day of the fiesta of Ccoyllorritty. There are three different masses in the chapel – a huge construction that rears out of the eerie nothingness of this otherwise uninhabited alpine valley, and boasts a notable Vegas-style neon-lit altar. We’ll also have the chance to see the comparsas (dance troupes representing different towns and community groups) do their thing all afternoon. The dances are impressive – singing, leaping, twirling and even mutual whipping are some common threads. But the costumes are even more breathtaking - elaborate, colourful, and at times macabre: stuffed llama foetus, anyone?

We’ll find time today to purchase some alacitas – a totally untranslatable word signifying a small object representing a desire. Toy houses, cars and trucks are common, but stranger objects like money, university degrees, and certificates of good health are also available. The idea is to buy one and get it blessed in the chapel – this helps you obtain your desire, and if you come three years in a row, success is said to be guaranteed. 2012 is Katy’s third year at Ccoyllorritty and she is excited (and not entirely sceptical) about getting her heart’s desire!

Fireworks will go off all night tonight – tremendous Andean fireworks, mounted on enormous temporary scaffoldings; it has to be seen to be believed.

  • Accommodation: Tent City, Ccoyllorritty
  • (B,L,D)

Day 4. Walk to Tayancani

This morning’s 10am Mass is the most important of the fiesta. After it, many head back down the hill and home, but we’ll join the devout who now make the so-called 24-hour pilgrimage to Tayancani. It's a long walk - about 33km! - but not a desperately difficult one (welcome to "Andean flat"!), and doesn’t really take 24 hours. There are plenty of stops along the way, and singing, dancing, music and rituals on all sides. We’ll sleep near Tayancani, after walking for a total of about nine hours. The scenery is amazing, with views of distant mountains and gorgeous nearby lakes, but the experience of hiking with other pilgrims is the most amazing thing of all - you won't even notice how far you're walking!

We’ll probably arrive late at night – the eerie experience of trekking in the dark while different groups perform musical and mystical ceremonies at the various way stations along the way is definitely one of the highlights of the trip. Tonight is our last night in this strange, rugged world, and it’s worth missing some sleep in order to be here for a dawn ceremony few foreigners have ever seen.

  • Accommodation: Camping, Tayancani
  • (B,L,D)

Day 5. Hardcore Andean religious fiesta at Tayancani

We’ll attend the unforgettable Greeting of the Sun ceremony at 7am, then descend to Tayancani with the rest of the pilgrims. At 10am is the final Mass of the yearly Ccoyllorritty fiestas, and afterwards we’ll hike out to Ocongate - a hiking experience unlike any other, where you’re one of an apparently endless parade of pilgrims who fill the track like ants as far as the eye can see as they wend their way down the valley.

In the afternoon we’ll drive back to Cusco, where there’s time to relax and clean up before we head out to savour the contrast over a world-class gourmet dinner and a bottle or two of wine at Cusco’s longest-standing international-standard fusion restaurant, La Cicciolina.

  • Accommodation: Comfortable Cusco hotel
  • (B,L,D)

Day 6. Free day in Cusco

The oldest continuously inhabited city in the Americas and its undisputed archaeological capital, Cusco (sometimes known as Cuzco, or in the local Quechua language as Q’osq’o) is a town whose attractions run into the thousands. It boasts enough museums, churches, and ruins to make your head spin. Or if you feeling like a little retail therapy, Cusco offers everything from folksy artesanias of every possible kind, through indigenous markets selling potatoes by the sack and frogs by the bucket, to exquisite handcrafted jewellery and avant-garde fashion. It’s also perfect for just wandering – through ancient, llama-width cobbled alleyways that open up into charming plazoletas (little plazas), and there are stunning cityscapes and inviting cafés at every turn.

If you’re in the mood for an organised activity, there are plenty of tours and outdoor activities on offer - whatever you’re in the mood for today, we’ll get you sorted!

  • Accommodation: Cusco hotel
  • (B)
  • OPTION A: INCA JUNGLE TRAIL TO MACHU PICCHU

    Day 7. Chinchero, Maras and Salineras - three unforgettable Inca sites

    Our first stop today is Chinchero, an hour from Cusco, a town is renowned for its weavers, impressive terraced Inca ruin, and church – Katy’s pick for Cusco’s most charming.

    Next stop is the massive, mysterious amphitheatres of Maras. Controversy rages as to their purpose (the Incas left no written records) but best guess is that it was an agricultural laboratory where they tried out different crops at different altitudes and angles to the sun. Whatever it was, it’s an impressive sight.

    The scenery here looking down on the verdant Sacred Valley is even better and we’ll stroll through it for about an hour and a half to the spectacular, surreal, Salineras saltpans. A still-working ancient salt factory that’s as beautiful as it is fascinating, with a patchwork of coloured pools twinkling under the sun, we think it’s the most amazing and underrated sight in the Cusco region.

    • Accommodation: Comfortable hotel in Ollantaytambo
    • (B,L,D)

    Day 8. Cycle down into the Amazon Basin!

    This morning we drive up to Abra Malaga, one of the highest points on the trip at 4,350 metres, and from here descend into the Amazon basin on bikes, losing about 1,300 metres of altitude over up to 71km of road (it’s up to you how much you ride!). The scenery is different from anything we’ve seen before as we descend into the rainforest, and there are lots of photo opportunities along the way as the road snakes down through ever lusher vegetation. There are a few sections of optional single track along the way, or you can stick to the road which is sealed for the first 20km and gravel thereafter.

    It's not hard to see why this ride is one of Peru's classics, and often favourably compared to Bolivia's infamous ‘Death Road’. It's pure fun - a long, looping descent through some of the most spectacular landscape you'll ever see. By the time we get to Santa Teresa, at 1,900 metres, we’re in high jungle - a whole different world! Tonight we'll camp in a lush rainforest gorge by the side of a rushing river.

    • Accommodation: Rustic eco-lodge outside Santa Teresa
    • (B,L,D)

    Day 9. Jungle adventures and relaxation

    This morning we’ll experience Cola de Mono, South America’s highest zipline (flying fox). After being harnessed up, kitted out and fully briefed, we’ll each whizz across six separate sections of line strung across the precipitous Sacsara Valley, a narrow fold in the Andes between Santa Teresa and Machu Picchu. The scenery is spectacular and the ride surprisingly serene; you won’t forget this experience in a hurry.

    We have several options in the afternoon – Santa Teresa is an outdoors adventure playground! There’s the possibility of the taxing but incredibly rewarding, little-known hike to Llactapata, a recently discovered Inca ruin that nestles into a jungle hilltop. The five-hour hike includes stunning views of precipitous jungle hillsides and sinuous river valleys, and even a few glimpses of Machu Picchu to whet our appetites for tomorrow. There’ll also be time today for soaking in the glorious Cocalmayo natural hot pools – natural thermal springs beside a raging river, the perfect place to soak away any aches and pains!

    If you let us know at time of booking, we can organise a rare and very special rafting trip on the exciting and scenic Santa Teresa Gorge (not included in trip price). There are several possible sections we can do on the turquoise-clear waters of this rarely run river that’s Grade 5+ in places. In consultation with our expert local guides, we’ll pick the best section on the day based on water level and group experience.

    Later we’ll take a short train ride to Machu Picchu Pueblo (town), also known as Aguas Calientes, where we’ll have dinner at Indio Feliz – a fancy, French restaurant whose incredibly yummy food is world famous in Peru. Then it’s off for an early night – we’ll be at Machu Picchu in time for sunrise tomorrow!

    • Accommodation: Hostal, Aguas Calientes
    • (B,L,D)
  • OPTION B: STANDARD INCA TRAIL HIKE TO MACHU PICCHU

    Day 7. Hike to Wayllabamba

    We’ll have an early departure from Urubamba today and head for KM82, where we start the Inca Trail. Crossing the Urubamba River we trek past typical, semi-arid forest featuring cacti, prickly pears and aloe vera. Llactapata, the first archaeological site on our journey, about six kilometres in, marks the turnoff into the Cusicacha Valley. From here we start to climb out of the Sacred Valley. Four kilometres of gentle uphill through farmland takes us to Wayllabamba and our campsite for the night.

    Walking – 12 kilometres or 8 miles
    Minimum Altitude – 2,700 metres, 8,990 feet
    Maximum Altitude – 3,100 metres, 10,000 feet
    Altitude of camp – 3,100 metres, 10,000 feet

    • Accommodation: Luxury camping on the Inca Trail
    • (B,L,D)

    Day 8. Wayllabamba to Pacaymayo

    Today we spend most of the day climbing to the highest point in the trek, Dead Woman’s Pass (Warmiwaynusca in Quechua). We’ll ascend 1,000 metres (3,280 feet) over 8 km (5 miles), initially past small villages and farmland, then through sub tropical forest, and eventually above the treeline to Dead Womans Pass at 4,200 metres (13,780 feet). From here it’s a steep 600 metres (1,980 feet) descent over 3 kilometres (1.8 miles) through humid forest to the evening campsite of Pacaymayo, and one of the best views in the Andes.
    Walking – 11 kilometres (6.8 miles)
    
Minimum Altitude – 3,100 metres (10,000 feet)
    Maximum Altitude – 4,200 metres (13,780 feet)
    Altitude of Camp – 3,600 metres (11,810 feet)

    • Accommodation: Luxury camping on the Inca Trail
    • (B,L,D)

    Day 9. Pacaymayo to Wiñay Wayna

    Only 45 minutes into today’s hike, we come to the first of today’s spectacular ruins: Runkurakay, the beginnings of the original royal Inca trail. From here it’s a stiff ascent of an hour or so to the second mountain pass at 3,900 metres (12,800 feet), which offers panoramic views of the spectacular, snow-covered Vilcabamba mountain range. This pass marks the watershed of the Andes – from here on we’re descending into the Amazon, and you’ll notice an immediate change to lusher, more ‘jungly’ vegetation. The next stop is Sayacmarca, one of the most beautiful ruins on the Inca trail. After lunch we trek through some of the most stunning scenery in Peru, through cloudforest, orchids and hummingbirds with mountains on all sides. From the other-worldly ruin of Phuyupatamarca we have three hours of steep downhill into the forest to Wiñay Wayna and our camp for the evening.
    Walking – 12 kilometres (10.5 miles)
    Minimum Altitude – 2,670 metres (8,760 feet)
    Maximum Altitude – 3,900 metres (12,800 feet)
    Altitude of Camp – 2,670 metres (8,760 feet)

    • Accommodation: Luxury camping on the Inca Trail
    • (B,L,D)

Day 10. Machu Picchu!

Jungle trail (Option A) participants will hike or catch the bus to Machu Picchu, and Inca Trail (Option B) hikers will set out by 6am to hike there, so we can all spend the day exploring the words-fail-me glory that is Machu Picchu – one of the new Seven Wonders of the World.

We’ll have a guided tour (a good one, with no numbers on sticks, we promise), plus plenty of time to explore on our own or climb for breathtaking views up one or more stunning nearby peaks: Huayna Picchu, Putucusi or Machu Picchu mountain itself. Later we’ll return by scenic train to Ollantaytambo.

  • Accommodation: Family run hotel, Ollantaytambo
  • (B,L,D)

Day 11. Through the Sacred Valley back to Cusco

Tiny, charming Ollantaytambo is said to be the most perfectly preserved of all Inca towns and is a must on any trip to Peru, with atmospheric cobbled alleyways and elaborately carved stone irrigation systems. It’s all presided over by a spectacular, llama-shaped ruin. We’ll have time for a guided tour of the ruin and some exploration of the town this morning before heading off.

The sunny, photogenic floodplain between Ollantaytambo and Pisac, in the valley of the Rio Vilcanota, was sacred to the Incas – hence its name. You’ll soon see why they rated the Valley so highly – its eternally springlike climate and gorgeous scenery made it a popular weekend getaway for Cusco’s aristocracy. This area once supported a large population whose industry and innovation helped feed an empire, and its history of intensive cultivation is evident everywhere in agricultural terracing and complex, still-working irrigation systems.

We’ll meander past tiny villages, corn and potato crops, and massive hilltop forts commanding views of valleys and passes for miles around on our way to Pisac. Here we’ll hike through the area’s largest military ruin - a massive and intricate series of bristling fortifications and protective terracing – and down into Pisac. The town is full of charm, with cobbled streets, carved stone buildings, and hidden courtyards where irresistible, piping hot empanadas (pastries) emerge from wood-fired ovens.

Of course we'll have some time to explore or shop at Pisac’s famous craft market - the region’s largest artesania (handcraft) market, and the perfect opportunity to buy last minute gifts and souvenirs! From Pisac it's a short drive back to Cusco, where we'll have our last dinner together.

  • Accommodation: Comfortable hotel in Cusco
  • (B,L,D)

Day 12. Departure day

We’ll get you to the airport in time for your flight out. If you’re staying on in Cusco, we’re delighted to help out with suggestions and assistance for the rest of your time here. (B,L)


GOT MORE TIME IN PERU?
We can help arrange all manner of activities to keep you entertained – from volunteering at a local school to a crash-course in Spanish or a visit to the lower jungle – the options are almost as endless as they are rewarding. . For instance, if you’ve chosen the “Inca Jungle Trail” option on your trip, after the trip you could add on hiking the classic Inca Trail (be sure to chat with us before the trip if you’re considering this, as you need to book as early as possible), another trek, or even a trip to a lodge in the Amazon, or Arequipa’s Colca Canyon.

Something else tickle your fancy? Let us know, and we’ll look into it for you!


CONDITIONS AT COYLLOR RITTY

This trip is only suitable for adventurous people who are prepared to rough it. Coyllor Ritty will be confronting, tiring, cold and uncomfortable at times - as well as, well, indescribable. You will spend this three or four days in another world – a 24-hour world of song, dance, costumes, symbolism, and fireworks. A tent city world where Quechua is the language of choice and where our white faces are likely to be pointed out and remarked on. A world where you will take part in a genuine religious pilgrimage to a remote mountain shrine – along with tens of thousands of other devotees.

Coyllor Ritty takes place in an isolated mountain valley where there is usually no human habitation, and therefore no infrastructure. Food choice is limited and hygiene standards are not the same as you are used to. Your guide is there to make the best possible food choices for you and you are more likely to be bothered by the nature of some of the food on offer (sheep stomach lining, cow udder etc) than hygiene issues! Food at this event is suitable for people who consider themselves adventurous. Vegetarians will face limited choice, and should bring extra fruit and snacks. We provide hot drinks throughout the event, in our base camp. Bottled water and other drinks are readily available to buy.

Public toilet conditions at Coyllor Ritty are … well, the less said the better. For this reason we take our own chemical toilet for the exclusive use of our group. It’s not what you’re used to at home, but it’s a lot better than the alternative!

Included

  • all meals except as specified on free day
  • drinking water at meals
  • all accommodation and activities specified in itinerary
  • entrance to Salineras, Moray, Pisac and Ollantaytambo ruins
  • Cola de Mono hipline
  • all guiding and transportation services specified in the itinerary

Not included

  • extra cost for Inca Trail Option B
  • horse, tent, sleeping bag or sleeping mat hire at Ccoyllorritty (we can arrange this)
  • any flights and airport transfers (we can help with arrangements)